Moth by Zoologist Perfumes (2018)
Moth is a perfume of many complex parts, producing a singular image of the creature tantalised by the flame. On this basis Moth is a resounding success, an impressive narrative display that details the finest particulars of the winged creature, from its scaled wings to the dusty silk of its protective cocoon, as it flaps and flutters towards a flame that whips delicate lashes of sweet aromatic smoke.
The perfume is matte and participates in an aesthetics of silence. Moth is impeccably clean and light: a quiet flap of its wings a gust through a residuum of scented dust. It is full of sumptuous ingredients yet preserves a magnificent sense of space; it is an aerial perfume. Even the most subtle and silent of gestures produces aesthetic impact. That is, a silent force is a force no less. This nocturnal scene is a serene one, haunting but tranquil, without menacing shadows but the soft and delicate engulf of moonlight.
Attesting to the perfumer's skill, Tomoo Inaba finds and then extracts smoky impressions from the subtle dimensions of unexpected materials, creating a pure and light effect. By layering textures of raspy nutmeg, blunt cinnamon, sticky honey, angular black pepper, and arid cumin to name a few this produces a crinkly and parched effect, calling to mind a fire glowing with a crackling charm. Its warmth is mysterious and soft, faint with a camphor note to reinforce its theme. Inaba has constructed a cleansing fire that does not burn.
This is redoubled in the base, where woody and incense materials impart structure and sense to this smoke. It has a meditative and trance-like feel, like being lost in the recitation of a poem. Revered palo santo is the primary wood note here, which is bright, musky, and resinous, while the earthy duo of cypriol and aged Indian vetiver adds atmosphere and radiance without weight.
Bridging this smoky effect is a powdery accord, which relies on the velvety touch of florals - heliotrope, mimosa, and iris in particular. An innocent green effect results from muguet, while a red rose accord adds passion', lending a slow and dance-like rhythm to Moth. Honey emerges having infused with smoke, this combination of sweet and dark speaking to this perfume's dominant textures. Moth is beautiful, and wears like a dream. Don't let the notion of darkness' dissuade, because in strange darkness familiar materials gains a fuller sense of themselves. Indeed, Moth lets us see wonderful perfumery in a new 'light'.
